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Take a sip of this fresh, zippy Grüner Veltliner and you won't be able to stop. It's got the classic scent of white pepper and green apple, a bright acidity and a bracing citrusy finish. The 2008 vintage from Austrian winemaker Berhard Ott drinks beautifully with grilled lobster, but it's just as good a match with oysters or clams on the half shell, bay scallops and peel 'n' eat shrimp. Serve it as an aperitif, too, with smoked trout or soft, ripened cheeses.

-- S. Irene Virbila

Region: Wagram, Austria

Price: About $23

Style: Fresh and zippy

What it goes with: Chilled seafood, smoked trout, cheeses

Where to find it: Elvino Wines in Venice, (310) 396-9705, www.elvino; Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024, www.silverlake; Wine Exchange in Orange (714) 974-1454, www.winex.com; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills (818) 222-1111, www.whwc.